Karnak Temple is quite a large temple complex and cannot be seen in an hour. It needs to be experienced. It is the largest religious site ever built, covering over 100 hectares in Luxor. It took 2000 years to build, with 30 different Pharaohs working on it. Each Pharaoh wanted to make it bigger and grander than the last. Most people visit this temple expecting it to be just another temple but it will change their opinion. The Great Hypostyle Hall is incredible to see. There are 134 columns and some are over 20 meters!
What is Karnak? Why does it feel so overwhelming?
Karnak was the worship site for Amun-Ra. He was a very important god in Thebes and the patron of the New Kingdom. It was never completed. It began to be built approximately 4000 years ago and took 2000 years to complete. Each Pharaoh added their own unique touch. Pylons, Chapels, Obelisks and Halls. This makes it an amazing site to explore. Foundations from the Middle Kingdom can be seen alongside New Kingdom buildings. These are surrounded by Ptolemaic buildings. After a while a Christian Church was built inside.
There are different areas to Karnak. Most of what is visible is the Precinct of Amun-Ra. There are other smaller precincts. The Precinct of Mut (Amun's wife) and the Precinct of Montu (war God with a falcon head). These have not been completely excavated. When people refer to Karnak they are usually referring to Amun's precinct. This alone can take 2-3 hours to explore.
The Great Hypostyle Hall
This area is stunning. The Great Hypostyle Hall measures 5000 metres with 134 columns. There are 12 columns in the centre aisle which are the tallest. They are between 21-24m tall. The capitals look like blooming papyrus plants. So large they can fit people inside! There are another 122 columns. These are shorter with closed papyrus buds as the capitals. It creates a dense forest of columns. Once they would have supported a roof. Now most of the roof is gone and it is open to the sky.
Most of the Hypostyle Hall was built during the time of Seti I. Ramesses II completed it around 1250BC. Everything is carved. There are scenes of battle, rituals, conquered people and messages from the Pharaohs. Some of the capitals and parts of the ceiling have colour. It is best to take photos in the morning. The sunlight comes through the columns creating a magical atmosphere.
Other Areas to See
Although the Hypostyle Hall is incredible there are other areas.
Obelisk of Hatshepsut. This is the only obelisk still standing in Egypt. It is 29.5metres tall. It is carved out of one block of granite, weighing around 320 tons. The inscription says it was cut from Aswan in 7 months. The other obelisk collapsed. You can still see the remains.
Sacred Lake. This is a rectangular lake. Priests would purify themselves here. There is a statue of a scarab here. This is for Khepri, the god of the morning sun. Locally it is believed the lake should be walked around 7 times to bring good luck. Nothing to worry about. It is a peaceful place to look out over the lake.
Open Air Museum. This area has many restored monuments. There are the White Chapel of Senusret I and the Red Chapel of Hatshepsut. These are shrines. They have some of the relief carvings. These can often be missed by tour groups.
Festival Hall of Thutmose III (Akhmenu). This is a very unique building. The columns may look like poles from the Pharaoh's army tents. Inside is the Botanical Garden chamber. This has carvings of plants and animals that Thutmose saw in Syria.
Why is it so interesting?
Karnak is interesting as it is like a living timeline. You can see the changes in architecture, religion and ambition of the Kings from the Middle Kingdom to Ptolemaic. It is dedicated to Amun-Ra. There are areas dedicated to his wife Mut and his son Khonsu.
Karnak was not for the priests. It was the centre of religion for centuries. The Opet Festival would start here every year. The statues of the gods would be carried from Karnak to Luxor Temple. They would travel along the Avenue of Sphinxes. These festivals had political significance. They highlighted the connection the King had with the gods. It would have been very noisy and vibrant. With music, crowds, incense and flowers.
Opening Times
Karnak opens around 6am and closes at 5pm. Opening times can vary depending on the season. The ticket office is 3km from the centre of Luxor.
Best to go in at opening times. It will be cooler and there will be light in the Hypostyle Hall. The courtyards are peaceful. Large tour groups usually do not arrive until 8.30am. Avoid midday between May-Sept. It can be over 40 degrees in Luxor and there is no shade. Late afternoons are also great. It will be quieter.
Sound and Light Show
If you have time in the evening visit the Sound and Light Show. You will walk through lighted pylons and the Hypostyle Hall. There is a narrator telling stories about the glory of Thebes. You will then sit by the Sacred Lake. The show has been running since 1972. The narrator speaks in different languages.
Why visit Karnak?
Karnak is tiring but incredible. You cannot rush it. You will feel dwarfed looking up at the columns and overwhelmed by the carvings. It is hard to believe how old it actually is. Some of the foundations date back to the Middle Kingdom. There are additions. Even Christian graffiti!
If you are going to visit one temple in Egypt visit Karnak. Not because it is the largest but because it will speak to you. Go early and take your time. You will not be able to see everything. If you are curious this will reward you.
Karnak Temple is not a single temple. It is a sprawling, overwhelming, two-thousand-year construction site where thirty pharaohs each tried to outdo the last in a bid for immortality.
