This village is actually home to the descendants of the Nubians, people with a history that predates the pharaohs and a country that was submerged by the Nile due to the building of the dams. This vibrant village is a real life, rebuilt version of what used to be.
Where Is The Nubian Village?
Many people mistake the Nubian Village for the Nubian civilisation. The actual Nubian region covers a large area across southern Egypt and northern Sudan. This powerful civilisation produced the famed Black Pharaohs that once ruled Egypt. Most people will visit the Nubian Village of Gharb Soheil (also spelt Gharb Seheil) which is one of the relocation villages built for the Nubians that were displaced by the dams. It is the easiest way to get a glimpse into real Nubian life. Visit the Nubian Museum first to understand the context and you’ll get much more out of your visit.
Getting There
The best way to get there is by boat.
Felucca 20-40 mins sailing. Quiet and very romantic.
Motorboat 10-15 mins. Fast but lacks atmosphere.
Public ferry A cheap ride to Elephant Island (Siou and Koti villages).
If you’re short on time or suffer from sea sickness you can also drive to the west bank. Tuk-tuk from central Aswan.
Things To See
The first thing you’ll notice is the brightly coloured houses. All the houses have completely different designs. The murals show scenes of pilgrimages to Mecca, fish in the Nile, palm trees and traditional geometric patterns from ancient Nubian art. Many doors are painted blue as it is part of Nubian tradition to ward off the evil eye. Sometimes there are horns or amulets hanging from the lintel above the doorway. This makes for some great photos but always check with people if you can take their photo and inside houses.
Crocodiles are an integral part of Nubian culture. It is believed that the Nile Crocodile is a sacred spirit and keeping one in your home would provide protection. Now many homes in Gharb Soheil have small crocodiles to entertain their guests. A photo with one (with a tied mouth) will cost you a few dozen EGP. This can be a bit of a contentious issue. Some people love it whilst others feel animals are being exploited. You decide!
Try the Henna. Nubian ladies are amazing at doing henna. They will paint pretty traditional patterns onto your hands/feet for 100-200 EGP. It will last around 2 weeks. Do this as soon as you get there, whilst the paste sets you can walk around the village.
Food
The food is completely different to what you’ll eat in Cairo or Luxor, definitely worth a try!
Nubian Tagine – Slow cooked meat and veg with local spices in a clay pot.
Sun Bread – Round flatbread cooked in the sun. Crispy on the outside, soft on the inside.
Karkade – The national drink of Nubia. Great both hot and cold. The version in Aswan is particularly good.
Fresh Dates – Aswan produces some of the best dates in Egypt. They are available between September-November.
Top Tips
It’s easy to do in half a day but don’t rush. Many tour groups don’t give enough time to visit the village. If you’re travelling independently allow a couple of hours (or more) to walk around slowly. If hiring a felucca make sure to sort out how long the boatman will wait with you.
Make sure you have sun protection! The sun in Aswan is brutal. There is very little shade in the village so wear a hat, long sleeves and bring water.
Stay Overnight Some families in Gharb Soheil offer rooms to stay in. They have amazing views over the Nile and are perfect if you want to take your time.
Have the right attitude. This is not a primitive tribe theme park, they are a real community and many families rely on tourism for income. Buy some jewellery made from beads, hand woven baskets and spices or simply relax with a cup of tea. Having a respectful and curious attitude will help.
Whilst it won’t give you the same feeling of wonder as visiting a temple, the Nubian Village is very friendly. With crazy bright colours, overly sweet mint tea and a crocodile basking in the courtyard. It’s a great place to sit back after having days of stone and hieroglyphics in Aswan and remind yourself that Egypt has a different side to it.
The Nubian Village is the only place in Aswan that will help you forget the tick-box mentality when visiting temples. This isn’t a classic ancient site with columns and carved pylons but the sight of the houses as your boat glides towards the west bank is incredible.
